Jordan: A window to the Middle East

Trip Length: 2 weeks

Trip Budget: €65 per day for a couple ( Accommodation per night €30, Care Hire per day €20, Food and others per day €15 )

General Information:

When we said we were visiting Jordan some people asked if it was safe. The simple answer is, yes. Jordan is one of the most stable Arab countries, so it is perfectly safe to travel independently. The people are delightful and welcoming.

It can however be hot, rather expensive and you must remember that it is still a poor Arab country, so travelling means “going with” all of those things. Come in the winter (Nov to Feb) to avoid the scorching heat (40 degrees +). The downside is that most of the tourists come in winter, so it can be busy. With a shocking Aussie dollar compounding the issue, Jordan is comparable in cost to most parts of Europe and the quality of what you get for your money is generally lower. Eating on the streets is affordable and shawarma (chicken cooked on the big rotating spit) with bread and salad are everywhere. Accommodation and transport are often poorly maintained, can be dirty and service is inconsistent. In contrast we had some of the best breakfasts and most generous hosts. The image the country wants to portray, that of a flourishing modern Arab country, is only part of the story of Jordan, as cities have poor infrastructure, lots of rubbish and from a western perspective, clear signs of poverty. There is also an Arab cultural way of doing things which seems chaotic and takes some getting used to..……so come prepared for all of the above and I promise you will enjoy your time here and be amazed by the people, the history and mind blowing scenery!

Money Matters:

There are not a lot of ATM’s outside the cities and they are sometimes out of order- so take what you need in advance. The cash rate is usually lower than Credit Card- so if you have a CC that doesn’t charge consider using that where you can (Jordan charges 5JD per transaction anyway). Most small hotels only take cash. CC is useable in petrol stations and at major tourist attractions (not in Wadi Rum). Where they don’t take CC- they will sometimes take Euro or $US. Consider buying the Jordan Pass online before you arrive. The prices range from $100 USD. The pass includes admission to Petra in addition to 40 of the other tourist attractions. If you stay in Jordan for more than three nights with the Jordan Pass, then you don’t pay visa fees at the airport- just show your Jordan pass!It can save you effort and money – but some people say the web site can be unreliable.

Car hire is JD20-30 per day and fuel .77 a Litre. Hotels are around JD 20-30 a night and some include breakfast. $100 -120 US a day with a rental car is possible.

Communication: Internet is inconsistent, and some things are blocked (e.g. you can message but can’t call from What’s App). Consider getting a VPN Ap (eg.Psiphon). Sim cards are expensive at JD10-15 a week but easily available. Phone reception is reasonable.

Getting in and Out:

Most people come via Amman Airport a new, clean and efficient airport 40 Km (40 mins) from the city. The taxi to the city costs 22JD set price and is the easiest as the bus stop isn’t near the old town. Don’t forget the 50JD visa on arrival cost- the money changer at the counter tells you that the visa booth doesn’t take CC but that’s not true. There is no departure tax if you leave via the airport (its included in your ticket).

The other most common way in is from Israel across King Hussein Bridge/Allenby (the closest to Amman at 57 km- only open until 1300 on Friday and Saturday). You can get a Jett bus but a taxi for 25JD is worth it. This border can be slow and chaotic on the Jordanian side (especially if you arrive at the same time as the Jett bus or several tourist buses)- you pay your 10JD departure tax, and hand your passport in at one counter, someone at another counter holds up your passport sometime later, then someone tells you to get on a bus (without your passport). Later still someone comes to take 7JD +1.50JD per bag for the transit bus across no-man land (5km’s) and then someone else calls out names to give passports back. VERY disorganised- it took us 2 hrs to get out of the country! Israel is thorough with lots of security checks but efficient- unless they take you in for questioning which seems a little random. Mini vans are there to take you to Jerusalem (30 mins for 47NIS). You can also cross easily by land at Aqaba in the south and Sheikh Hussein Bridge in the north.

Getting Around:

Buses are not that cheap, with unreliable timetables and limited routes. Lots of the best places are off the main roads, so I would consider a car. You see even die-hard backpackers teaming up and getting a car in Amman. At JD 20-25 a day for local and international companies (maybe slightly cheaper not at the airport) if there is 2 of you it is worth it (e.g. JD11 each for the once a day bus to Petra).

Places to See:I’ve broken these into 3 sections, the things you can see from a base in Amman, the places along the inland route to Aqaba and the places on the Dead Sea route back from Aqaba. It makes a good circuit of about 700km.

Day Trips based around Amman (5 nights):

Jordan is not such a large country and Amman in central. You can easily do day trips to many of the locations within 100km. We actually stayed in Jerash to see the north, but it is rather close. Amman itself is a dusty yellow ancient city on the road between Jerusalem and Arabia. The outskirts are where the modern Amman can be found with shopping malls and new housing developments against a yellow desert backdrop. Today there is traffic chaos and some ancient sites somehow surviving amongst the life of the city. Stay in near the amphitheatre and Citadel as there are lots of places to eat and it’s easy to walk to the most interesting parts of the city. Most hotels will help arrange taxis, tours or car hires.

Day trip to Jerash: Only 50km north of Amman, the ruined city of Jerash is Jordan's largest and most interesting Roman site. Its imposing ceremonial gates, colonnaded avenues, temples and theatres all speak to the time when this was an important Roman imperial centre. JD 10 admission price is worth it. It’s a long dusty walk with not much shade so take water and a hat.

You can continue further north of Jerash towards Irbid with some great scenery.

Day trip to Desert Castles: You could do a 200km loop out of Amman to Azraq Fort and Oasis. By doing the northern loop on the way out and the southern loop back you can pass by a number of the forts or castles that were on the trade route to Arabia. None are “unmissable” as most are in a poor state of repair- but they are interesting , especially if you are interested in the Arab wars ( not the current ones but the 1914 ones with Lawrence of Arabia).

Day around Old City sights and museums: The area known as the Citadel sits on the highest hill in Amman, (about 850m above sea level- which is high if you consider the Dead Sea is -430 m) and is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon. Occupied since the Bronze Age, it's surrounded by a 1700m-long wall, which was rebuilt many times during the Bronze and Iron Ages, as well as the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad periods. There's plenty to see, but the Citadel's most striking sights are the Temple of Hercules and the Umayyad Palace. It overlooks the amphitheatre- stunning at night when lit up.

Day trip to Madaba/ Mt Nebo/ Bethany- beyond the Jordan/ Ma’in Hot springs: Under an hour away, some people actually base themselves in Madaba for the day trips rather than Amman. It’s as close to the airport, cheaper and much nicer to stay in. The city of mosaics it has strong Christian roots. St George Church has the most famous mosaic which is a map of the Holy Land in the year 557AD. The Museum is also good. Mr Nebo is only 7 Km away and has great views back over the Dead Sea. It is the place where Moses is said to have stood when he claimed the Promised Land for the Jews. Bethany- Beyond- Jordanis the place where Jesus was said to have been Baptised is a big pilgrimage site for Christians all over the world. At JD12 it is expensive, and the Jordan is anything but a river! You park at reception some way from the Jordan river. There is no other way to get to the Jordan (it is the border) except here. It is an easy loop back to Amman.

South on the Inland route to Aqaba -4 nights

Head down the Inland route to Aqaba via Karak (Castle), Wadi Musa (Petra) and Wadi Rum (Desert). This route takes you through the mountains and into the desert and is a great way to loop if you have a rental car.

Karak: Pass through Karak a stunning Crusader castle perched on the top of a hill.

Wadi Musa (2 nights)Petra: Well, this is the big one that attracts millions of tourists (by the coach load) every year. Thankfully it is a large site with lots to see and lots of walking tracks, so the crowds seem to spread out (except at a few key attractions). A 3hr drive south from Amman if you go directly along the good dual carriage Desert Highway. Stay near the Park- it is nice and there are some hotels and places to eat- the centre of Wadi Rum is congested, and it is hard to park. We stayed a Nomad Hotel and walked down to the site and hitched a lift back up (after 25km of walking we could not face the hill). Remember Petra is a gorge, so streets are narrow, steep and chaotic with big buses and 4-wheel drives.

The spectacular sandstone city of Petra was built in the 3rd century BC by the Nabataeans, who carved palaces, temples, tombs, storerooms and stables from the soft stone cliffs. Admission is steep at JD50 a day with an extra half for JD5. The site opens at 6.00 and we recommend you get there early as the coaches don’t seem to arrive until 10. I did the basic walk in through the Siq (the 1.2 long canyon split by tectonic shift and as narrow as 2m across with 200m high walls) to the famous Treasury, past the theatre and to the base of the mountain walk to the Monastery and did still did 16km walking. The first half of the walk was in paved, in shade and slowly down-hill and then opened out with dust and little shade. Where I stopped there was a lovely seated area under the trees (bring your lunch as there is an expensive buffet and limited other food- lots of cold water enroute for JD1). Gary added a walk to the High Sacrifice , the Tombs and the Monastery (a walk 800 steps up through canyons and up hills) and did another 10 km (mostly up hill). It was worth every step- it is truly stunning. There is no equal anywhere else in the world- truly unique and mind blowing. There are numerous tracks which some people do on the 2ndmorning.

The iconic picture of the Treasury at the end of the Six (canyon) walk into Petra

Wadi Rum (2 nights): It is an easy hour and a bit by car to Wadi Rum from Petra. A wadi is a valley and Rum means sand. It is a stunning national Park set in the desert amongst stunning mountains and canyons. The drive has great views back to Petra as you head south along the ridge and join the Desert Highway. Get money and supplies before you turn off the road for the last 10 km to Wadi Rum as there is little there. The western flank of Wadi Rum is formed by Jebel Rum (1754m), which towers over Rum village ( a shabby collection of concrete houses where the locals live). There is a good Tourist office at the start where they say you need to pay JD5 admission- but this is often paid for you by the tour company if you book a tour- so try not to pay it. Some people came on an organised day trip from Aqaba (40km away) but staying over-night in the desert is a treat. All the accommodation is in desert camps somewhere out from the village (2-15 km by jeep). The accommodation people charge really cheap daily rates because when they pick you up and drive you to their camp- they “have” you as there is no-where else to go, eat or book a tour. Most accommodation includes all meals (a must as if not they can charge JD15-20 per meal). The tours are expensive JD70 each if there is only 2 and slightly cheaper if there is more.

North on the Dead Sea Route from Aqaba to Amman (4 nights):

Aqaba (2 nights) :We drove from Wadi Rum to Aqaba (40km) to check out the Gulf. It is a charming town with date palms and a growing number of exclusive gated communities on the gulf. Diving and snorkelling can be found south of the city. The corniche (sea-front) itself is not that attractive but the town has a good feel.

Wadi Mujib: Head back up the Dead Sea road past Lots Cave to Wadi Mujib which is about halfway up the Dead Sea. Wadi Mujib is a great National park for walking and comes to the Dead sea in a lovely canyon. JD13 for the hire of jackets and access to the canyon is good value. You need to wear swimmers as you walk in water or swim up- pulling up on a rope to a waterfall (about an hour). It only operates May to end of October. Go early to beat the rush. It’s a cool lush canyon.

Dead Sea Area (2 nights) : It is a lovely drive along the Dead Sea Coast. The road clings to the coast of the Sea and the views are stunning. The bad news is that it is hard to find a cheap way to do the Dead Sea. The hotels on the edge in the north have control of beach access, are over-priced and vary greatly in quality. The Amman Public Beach (not in Amman but on the Dead Sea) charges JD20 to access the dirty beach. We found a great free place to “climb” down to the waters edge 500m south of the Wadi Mujib bridge. It just looks like a large dusty pull over but if you park it is an easy walk down to the edge where you can swim and make mud to rub on yourself. Take water to rinse yourself off when you finish as there are no facilities

Via Ma’in: When you turn off inland towards the Ma’in you climb up the stunning Dead Sea Panorama road with lots of places to stop for views with the mountains of Israel giving lovely reflections. Its worth driving back to Amman this way rather than through the crowded northern Dead Sea area. The Ma’in Hots springs are a hot waterfall with an expensive spa and worth the detour (can be busy with locals).