Coron Island- Philippines

Change is coming quickly to this island paradise.

Trip Length: 1 week

Trip Budget: $125 US per day for a couple. Philippines is no longer a super cheap

Accommodation per night $80 US for a 3star hotel, Food and others per day $45US

GENERAL INFORMATION: PHILIPPINES

Location and Geography:

The Philippines is an island country in Southeast Asia

about (800 km) off the coast of Vietnam. It is a

mountainous archipelago that consists of 7,641 islands

with a total land area about the size of California.

It has one of the world's longest coastlines.

Manila is the capital, but nearby Quezon is the largest city.Both are on Luzon the northern and largest island.

The southern Mindanao is the second largest island.

The mid group of Islands are called the Visayas and include the much-visited Cebu and Palawan islands.

Climate:

The climate is tropical.

March to May (summer) the hottest months

June to October (the rainy season) with strong typhoons possible in some areas

November to February (the coolest months)

Places exposed directly to the Pacific Ocean high rainfall all year. The average temperatures range from 78°F / 25°C to 90°F / 32°C, and humidity is around 77 percent.

People: The population is 115 million making it one of the most populous countries in Asia. Filipinos are a kind, generous hard-working people who deserve better than the hand history has delt them.

Several thousand years ago, the first settlers were Melanesians related to the Australian Aborigines. Later settlers travelled from Taiwan and spread south through the Philippines. The descendants of these tribes still live on remote islands. Most Filipinos (notice it’s not Philippinos) are descendants of these original peoples and the colonial powers that arrived in the 16th century. Because it was under Spanish rule for 333 years and under U.S. control for a further 48 years, the Philippines has a strong western influence. English as the main language Catholicism the main religion. Despite the prominence of Anglo-European cultural characteristics, the peoples of the Philippines have a unique Filipino identity.

History:

When the explorer Magellan landed in 1521, the Philippines was predominantly animist (worshipers of supernatural powers), with some Muslims and Hindus mainly in the south. Magellan was Portuguese but it was a Spanish expedition which meant the islands were eventually claimed by Spain. The Philippines was finally named for Crown Prince Philip II of Spain. Spaniards and natives from the other Spanish colonies (Mexico, Peru etc) settled in the Philippines and introduced their cultures and the archipelago became "Hispanicised".

After 300 years the Filipinos finally declared independence from Spain in 1898 after defeating Spain only to see Spain cede the Philippines to the USA the following year when they lost the Spanish-American War. It had not been theirs to give but that made little difference to colonial powers. The struggle continued against new occupiers! Filipinos fought American colonization for seven years of the utmost brutal conflict imaginable with the US committing cruel and racist war crimes. The Filipino resistance was decimated, and US control continued until Philippines were granted autonomy (not independence) in 1935. The suffering continued when Japan invaded, and the even more sadistic Japanese occupation lasted from 1941 until 1945. The US liberated what was still considered as a US territory from the Japanese, with Americans and Filipinos fighting side by side. Finally, in 1946, the Philippines were granted independence. What a journey!

Politics and the Economy:

Filipinos continue to grapple with a society with extreme wealth alongside tremendous poverty. Rich in resources, the Philippines has the potential to build a strong industrial economy, but the country remains largely agricultural. The rapid industrial expansion in the 20th century only increased social and economic divisions and contributed to severe environmental degradation.

The country has been wracked by political turmoil. After enduring more than a decade of authoritarian rule under President Marcos he was deposed in 1986 in a bloodless uprising. Marcos was exiles and a democratic government was established. But the road has not been smooth with rife corruption, political instability, and power in the hands of “political dynasties”. Following disillusionment in a bizarre twist Bongbong Marcos (the son of the deposed autocratic leader) became the 17th president in 2022 is supposedly free elections. I guess political memories are short. The locals say he was misrepresented. Mmmm… we seem to have the ability to rewrite history when it suits us.

The Philippines is an emerging economy. It attracts solid investment and has achieved significant improvement in education the past years. Infrastructure is still inconsistent with places without running water and electricity. Health care is fractured with limited free care but excellent private care. One of its greatest assets and exports are its people, with 2 million of its citizens working overseas in an attempt to escape grinding poverty. The social impact of children raised with absent parents is impacting on rural communities.

PRACTICAL MATTERS

Top Travel Tips at a glance:

1. Philippines has typhoons so where you can travel and when matters.

2. Parts of the southern Philippines is unstable with terrorist factions active.

Visas:

Nationals from most countries, can enter without a visa for up to 30 days, or get a visa on arrival for up to 59 days, as long as they have a return or onward ticket as well as passports valid for a period of at least six months beyond the period of stay. There is an electronic arrival form to be completed before you land at Manila. This is a QR code at the departure airport. If completed it shows on your passport when immigration opens it up and you won’t need to show the scan sent to your email. If you don’t have it, you will be taken to another person to complete it and who knows how long this takes.

Safety:

Generally, The Philippines is safe.

Terrorist attacks and violent confrontations between the Filipino army and splinter militant Islamic organizations such as the Abu Sayyaf and the Moro Islamic Liberation Front have taken place in rural areas in the south.

Language:

Filipinos are the most English-proficient Asian people today and English is considered as a second language with the official language Filipino. Many businesses and schools also speak in English and many signs around the country are in English. American culture such as movies, television, music, electronic accessories, and such are extremely evident.

Money:

The currency of the Philippines is the Philippine peso (PHP). It is the only currency that is legally accepted. There are ample ATM’s around with banks in most tourist areas (some with odd hours). Big hotels have money changers as do shopping centres and airports. Don’t assume credit card will be accepted for tours. All the locals use GCash which is accepted everywhere. It is a debit card. Foreigners can get it but we didn’t need to so I’m not sure about the process.

Communication:

Internet is widely available, but it is inconsistent on the islands and there is limited secure free WIFI. The old favourites like MacDonalds and Starbucks are in lots of locations.

Sim cards are available at the airport (only fractionally more expensive but can be a que to purchase) and convenience stores around the country. There are good prices – for example 5GB, 5 days for 50 Peso (after you purchase the sim card for 50 Pesos).

Electricity:

The voltage and frequency used in the Philippines are.

220-240 volts and sockets are like in the US. Many don’t

have the 3rd round hole so you may need an adaptor if

your appliances have the 3rd pin.

Holidays:The Philippines the world's third-largest

Catholic Nation. Masses draw large crowds and on Sunday

many businesses close (especially in rural or non-tourist

areas). In holy weeks many places close down or have

limited trading hours.

Eating:

There is a strong western influence, so you won’t starve even if you don’t want to try the local food. We did discover our first cheese and avocado flavoured ice cream. You also have to watch for the tiny ants that get into everything- I stirred my nachos halfway through to see tiny ants scatter amongst the corn chips. The hot dogs and BBQ sticks are everywhere and at 50 peso a quick snack.

Here are some popular Filipino foods:

Tocino: Filipino version of bacon (pork belly cured in sugar, salt, spices then fried)

Sinangag: garlic fried rice

Pritong itlog: fried egg

Hotsilog: Breakfast with a hot dog, rice and egg

Bansilog: Breakfast with marinated beef rice and egg

Tapsilog: Breakfast with fish burger rice and egg

Tosilog: Breakfast with bacon rice and egg

Pork sisig: pig ears, jowls and liver, onion, and chili peppers sizzling with a raw egg on top

Pork/chicken Adobo: vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, bay leaves, chilli and black pepper.

Kare-Kare: Filipino curry, made with either beef, oxtail, or pork, in creamy peanut sauce and ground toasted rice mixed with banana blossoms, pechay, string beans, eggplant.

Humba: similar to adobo, but also includes banana blossoms and fermented black bean

Lechon: a suckling pig, skewered on a bamboo pole, and roasted whole over charcoal.

Pancit guisado: fried noodles in three noodle sizes: (canton, bihon, and bam-i)

Buko: Filipino word for “fresh young green coconuts”.

Ice candy: Fruit juice,sugar and milk, in a slender plastic bags that are tied shut and frozen.

Ube: Purple yam- can be seen in icecreams

Accommodation:

Prices are around $80 US for a double room with bathroom in a 3-4star hotel in a tourist area. Half that in a single star or back packers.

Getting in/out and moving about:

International airports are located in Manila, Clark, Angeles, Davao, Kilibo, Laoag, Iloilo. Most people arrive and depart by air. There are ferries that move frequently between islands. Not as many as their used to be and they can be unreliable but are a great way to meet people and see the islands along the way (a few go overnight so you miss it all).

And finally to Coron…..

Orientation:

Coron is a town on the southern side of the island of Busanga a part of the Calamian Islands, in the Palawan Provence in the far west of the Philippines. The town is squeezed on a strip below the mountains that rise out of the sea all around it. There is lush forest behind and mangrove swamps or cliffs either side. Most of the rest of the island is sparsely habituated and mostly forested but you might consider some treks or forest stays which are a world away from Coron. What most travellers call Coron is Coron Town not Coron Island which is a short boat ride away. Coron island is a protected island inhabited only by the indigenous Tagbanwa people.

Coron Town was a fishing village. The current population is just over 40,000, and it is becoming more and more popular tourist every year. The growth has been unregulated so infrastructure is poor with a very chaotic and undeveloped waterfront. Coron is often listed as one of the top tourist places in the Philippines and it is popular with locals, with foreign tourists heading more towards Boracay and El Nido. The main draw to Coron is a boat ride away on the small islands clustered around Busuanga.

The airport is small with a single carosel. Local taxi drivers know the flight schedules, and they will be waiting to take passengers to Coron Town 20 mins away (22km). if you have pre- booked they will have your hotel name, if not just give them your hotel (or where you want to go). The price is 250 Peso- the same if you pre- book or not. All taxis are similar 10 seater AC vans in varying states of repair and they like to fill up before they leave if they can. The Coron airport (Busuanga- USU) doesn’t have runway lights, and flights can’t land after dark. They charge a 200 peso Eco tourist charge per person at the arrivals.

PRACTICAL MATTERS

Top Travel Tips at a glance:

1. There are a handful of pre-set tours you will find all over town and they vary little from place to place with prices from 850P to 2000P, including lunch. Most hotels will book one for you including pick up. Most tours return after 4 pm.

2. BYO snorkel gear and flippers if you can carry it as tours do not include it and it makes a difference. Kayaks (1200-1500 per day for up to 3), snorkel gear (500 pp) or reef shoes (300 pp) are rented out as extras and collected from a central point on the boat as you leave town. I think you can live without a kayak for the small time you use the (they are carried on the boat outriggers and the crew get them down for you a few times in the day).

3. The waterfront is undeveloped, and you won’t get a hotel with white sands and a lovely water view in Coron town- it is a base to explore the islands.

4. Most places to say are clustered along Don Pedro and the Coron- Busanga Road running just alongside of each other- the Colosseum Sports centre is near the local night market.

5. Roads outside town are often unsealed so hiring a motor bike is good if you are confident and good with heat or rain. Rental is as cheap as 500 peso per day. You can flag down a tricycle taxi for 100-200 peso per trip.

6. Internet can be inconsistent, but electricity is now 24/7 unless there is a storm and then it goes on and off.

7. Have cash on arrival as you’ll need it for the taxi and tourist arrival tax and there is one ATM that is not always working.

8. Storm alerts are issued by the government to any phone on the local tower. Great unless its 2am and just heavy rain.

9. The wet season is unpredictable. We were here at the end of August and had 4 amazing days and 3 wet days. The plus was there was cloud cover to make it cooler but the downside is the boats to the island don’t run. If you’ve booked and it is wet you can cancel, so try not to prepay. Not all hotels have food so a close walk to food if its raining is handy.

10. Things do shut down on festival days. We were there for the Coron festival of St Augustine (the big church in town who broadcast sermons on loud speakers) an there were parades and music at the Colosseum but lots of businesses closed for a few days.

ITINERARY

Day 1: Manila to Coron

We had arrived from Brisbane the night before and had a night near the Manila airport. We stayed at the Kingsford Hotel ($80 US pn) which had a courtesy shuttle (limited times) and was only 5 mins drive. We missed the shuttle so had to pay 700 peso for a white van in the arrivals area. A yellow taxi in the same area was a similar price as there was 2 of us with luggage. Kingsford was a modern hotel with a nice pool, near to a shopping centre and friendly staff.

We arrived in Coron from Manila by air (1hr $80 with Philippine Airlines or Cebu was slightly cheaper but the times were not as good). The airport Terminal 2 is the departure for Philippines airlines Coron flights. The airport was comfortable, good AC, free WIFI, plenty of seats, good priced food and free hot and cold water. The plane was a small craft with propellers and 4 seats across which is common on this short run.

You could opt for the weekly ferry with 2GO departing Sunday 4pm (11-13 hrs $50- extra for a tourist berth with linen- often delayed), but this is less popular as flights become more reliable and inexpensive. Another popular route is to arrive from El Nido on the direct ferry (5hr, $50, 5 days a week) or as part of a tour that drops you there.

Day 2: Coron Town: Mount Tapyas

There is not a lot to do in Coron Town itself. The waterfront is just a port where all the boatd depart. There are some markets in the evening with food and bits stalls. Mount Tapyas is one of only two hotspots in Coron Town (the other being Maquinit Hot Springs). You will notice a giant hill in the distance with the letters C-O-R-O-N and a large white cross situated at its peak. That hill is Mount Tapyas. This popular viewpoint offers a beautiful view of the surrounding hills and an unimpeded look toward the beautiful Coron Island. Be prepared to climb 721 steps in direct sunlight. The path offers little shade and takes about 30 minutes to climb. You can find the start next to K-Heights Inn- can’t miss it.

Day 3: Coron Island Tour: Barracuda Lake, Kayangan Lake, Twin Lagoon, Twin Peaks, Beach 91, Balinsasaw Reef

Coron Island is located a 30-minute boat ride from Coron town and is what it is all about. You will only get to see a small part of this mostly uninhabited protected island. Most tours follow exactly the same route, so it gets very busy! I’m sure there is a reason they don’t go in opposite direction – go figure! We chose the “ Super , Ultimate Tour” (1800peso pp)

Kayangan Lake

Boats stop here usually first for about an hour. Known as one of the clearest lakes in all of Asia, and its viewpoint are one of the most photographed places in all the Philippines (if you can wait 30 mins in the line to take the photo). The main viewpoint is not actually of the lake but the bay on the other side of Coron Island. You climb 163 steps up to the view point and then drop down again to the large crystal clear aqua lake that you swim in off cliff mounted platforms. They require you have your life jacket with you, even if its not on.

Twin Peaks

These are 2 undercut roks just off the coast with shallow reef where the bot stops for swimming and snorkeling

Balinsasaw Reef and Hotel

We stopped here for lunch. The hotel is supposedly open but looks under repair except for a stunning pool and a few beach chairs where boats stop and provide lunch of fish, chicken, rice, salad and fruit. You then swim and snorkel on the small reef just near the island beach.

Barracuda Lake

Another ultra-clear lake a bit quieter than the more popular Kayangan Lake. A small walk way leads to the worst steps (only 60 ) I have ever seen over gap between rocks. The platform around the lake is smaller but it is just as beautiful.

Beach 91

A stunning white sand beach for swimming and snorkling around the edges.

Swim into the Twin Lagoon

Probably the most breathtaking scenes in Coron is the Twin Lagoon. You can stop just outside the 2 lagoons and walk to the main one and swim to the second, or some boats go into one of the lagoons. You kayak or swim across the first lagoon and under a tunnel (you lay flat in your kayak to go through the 10 metre arch way between the 2 lagoons. The water has thermal currents and goes from cold to warm. There is amazing clear water and fish and oysters.

We got caught in a down pour, but ok we were in and out of the water all day and everything was wet by the end. We got sunburnt despite multiple attempts at sunscreen. Bring plenty of water as the tour only has 2 small bottles each. A waterproof phone case (sold everywhere you turn including sellers who come onto the boat) would be nice. We sat on the front of the boat most of the time. The boats do vary GREATLY from very old (ours) to well maintained and shiny new (mostly for the small private tours). It seems luck of the draw. Our pickup was late but the return was too so we got the 8 ½ hours advertised. Generally, the crew is lovely and will help and join in with guests. Our boat broke down, but we sat amid the lagoon as the sun set and the crew sorted it out. We don’t usually do tours, but this is the only way to see Coron and it was all in all a good experience.

Day 4: Coron-Maquinit Springs

Located 25 minutes south from Coron Town, it is relatively easy to get to either by motorbike or tricycle (about Php700 for a round trip and the driver gives you an hour at the springs). Keep in mind that the drive to the hot springs is only sealed for the first 10 minutes then is down a very rough and bumpy road so in the wet not so good. Maquinit is one of the few saltwater hot springs in the world. You can visit night or day but in the hot season most people chose sunset. It is surrounded by mangrove trees and open view to the ocean. The hot spring is open from 6 am – 10 pm with an entrance fee of 300 peso pp.

Kingfisher park Hundreds of fireflies in the middle of a huge lake covered in luminescent plankton under a sky full of stars. Contact them directly on the Face Book page or the Calamianes Expeditions and Eco tours (11 San Augustine St) as its not listed as one of the group island tours seen in every hotel. It’s only good in certain conditions so you have to be lucky to get them all at the same time. The tide can’t be low around 6pm as it’s a a kayak tour, the phase of the moon can’t be full as they need darkness and the weather as it can’t be raining or too cloudy- otherwise you’ll see very few stars. It is a 45 min ride from Coron town and hotel pick up is included. The 1- 1/12 hour Starry Starry Night Tour is Php 1500 PP pax.

Day 5: Island Hopping- Malcapuya, Ditaytayan, Bulog OR Losong Island

If you are a diver or into reefs, then opt for Lusong Island and the Reef Garden or don’t have a day in the mountains at Mt Talapy. The coast of the Philippines is littered with WWII wrecks. The Lusong Gunboat is just below the surface and you can snorkel over it. After over 70 years, it has become part of the environment, and corals are growing on it. We did not go and the feedback from travellers who did was that the gun boat was good but the Coral Garden was disappointing with signs of neglect and large areas of dead reef.

We did the “Island Escape tour” (1800 peso pp) which is a beach hopping tour.

Malcapuya Beach

With only a few small hotels on the beach, you can have this picture-perfect stretch of sand mostly to yourself.

Ditaytayan Beach

Ditaytayan Island is a stuning island with a white sandbar, which gets covered at high tide. There is snorkling on both sides of the sandbar. This small island also has three beaches on its other sides, including the locally famous “Long Beach”.

Bulog Beach

Bulog Dos is the smallest sandbar a short boat ride from Coron.

Day 6: Coron- Mt Talapay

It is about a 45 minute drive along roads are paved . Good to get a bike so you can hop off your bike to take photos . The entrance fee to this viewpoint and large grounds is 20 pesos. The sunset is the best part. There is a café. It is absolutely beautiful and worth a visit.

Day 7: Coron to Manila.

Buses pick up from all hotels and do the run to the airport getting you there an hour before. Check in on line if you can as it can be slow at the single desk there.

So , all in all a great week’s break, even though we scored some expected rain towards the end of the week.

Enjoy.